Monday, June 27, 2005

"God is an Englishman"

It's funny experiencing British Summer Time abroad. Whenever I deep my toe in, I realize how out of it I am. An Indian friend of mine tells me that England won The Ashes:
"It's no big deal - Bangladesh beat the Ozzies too."
Or take this weekend. I phone my parents:
"We'll call you back - the Brit's about to be out of Wimbledon"
"Who? Tim Henman?"
"No!!! Andrew Murray!"
"Who?!!"
"Look, it's 5/1 - I'll call you back."
Head to Guardian Artsblog to check consistency of mud at Glastonbury.
Am called back. Discuss biblical-scale destruction of camp sites.
Mum: "You see - God hates Glastonbury."
My email afterthought: "Does that mean God hates Wimbledon too?"
Later, from Dad: "'God is an Englishman' (RF Delderfield) therefore hates Wimbledon because we never win there! Also check photo on bbc.co.uk - we think it's Tim!"
It's true! Here: middle distance shot of The Boy loping across sodden festival field.
And now today the news that Richard Whitely has died. Feel a nostalgic longing to see Countdown again - as much a British institution as any of the above fixtures. Folk in Leeds used to refer to the Yorkshire Television studios as Richard Whitely's Caravan - perhaps such a thing ought to be set up at future Glasto's in memory a la The John Peel Stage. Seriously though, there are just some people you assume will go on forever, wearing ridiculous suit/tie combo's and cracking gently terrible jokes. In all honesty, I worry about the legions of lonely grannies sitting bereft on weekday afternoons, notebooks and pens still in hands but with no Countdown to orient their days around. And lest we forget the legions of students clustered cultishly and - they claimed - ironically infront of TV sets across the land. I say "claimed" because I have a particular memory of Ali flying into a rage over what he percieved to be a totally unfair Conundrum question. Ahh, RIP.
All this makes me feel that maybe I'm just some kind of traditionalist after all. Considering looking for some Pimms.

Friday, June 24, 2005

Pubzines

What with all the talk of zines last weekend, I was reminded of something that had been languishing unread in my hard drive for over two years now and decided that, since I have joined the blogging brigade, I at least owed this slightly outdated interview the chance to languish unread on t'internet for a bit instead. It had been destined for what turned out to be a "pubzine" - that is, one of those myriad publications that get talked about at length as closing time approaches but somehow never actually make it to issue one. Anyway, here it is:

Interview with Reuben [17/02/2003]

The guys from Reuben go back a long way. In fact, as singer/guitarist, Jamie, helpfully explains: ‘What we could have done when we first met—which would have been sensible—is buy a tiny donkey foal and watch it grow with us, and then we’d actually know in terms of donkey’s years…’

Okaaaay. All those weeks on the road must be interfering with the old grey matter. This is the band’s fifth tour in seven months. Drummer Guy recalls headlining with Elviss last summer, supporting Welsh noisy-bastards, McLusky, and then Hell is for Heroes, followed by another headline tour and now finding themselves at the fragrant Leeds Cockpit, sandwiched between Miss Black America’s new line up and 2003 hot prospect, Kinesis. Thus, I was half expecting to encounter a trio of young guns, hell bent on a sweat sodden quest for death or rock glory. However, reality—in yet another illusion-destroying coup de grace—presents three affable young chaps whose apparent refusal to take themselves too seriously results in a frequent inability to give a sensible answer (see ‘relative merits of domestic rodents’ conversation later). Never mind, eh?

They’re certainly friendly. All it takes is one simple question about spending weeks sleeping in a hired white van…

Jamie: “We try and sleep at people’s houses mostly. (Short pause) Can we sleep at your house?”

Er, yeah?

All: (suddenly very eager) “COOL. How big’s your house? We can give you a lift and everything. If that’s cool then that would really help us out. You’re at uni here yeah? Where are you from?”

Camberley

As luck would have it, bassist, Jon, is a fellow resident and from this point the interview threatens to degenerate into ‘small world’ platitudes and swapping of local stories about who knows who and where etc. etc. Note to self: must discover some relevant information. Ah, here we go…

They list standard influences such as Nirvana, At the Drive In and Deftones, “Because they’re good,” pipes up Guy.

“All the bands that everyone likes really,” adds Jamie “Apart from Black fucking Sabbath.”

You don’t like them?

“No. They’re shit.”

Hundred Reasons and Vex Red are from your neck of the woods; do you see yourselves as part of a ‘Home Counties emo’ scene with them?

“Er, we were. But they kind of moved away and I s’pose we have as well. I think you stop being part of a scene as soon as you start doing national tours really.”

You still wear each other’s T-shirts though.

“Yeah, bless the little fuckers.”

Jon: “Fuckers?”

Jamie: “Yeah, they’re my mates, obviously, it’s a term of endearment.”

So it’s not a cynical advertising scam?

Guy: “It’s just cos they’re great guys. They did it without trying to make much of a point. You see Colin (Doran, from Hundred Reasons) wearing Lucky Thirteen T-shirts too.”

Jon: “It’s probably more cos we give them free T-shirts.”

Jamie: “It’s just a nice thing to do. I had Vex Red written on my guitar in the first video we did. And I’m always telling ladies I’m mates with Hundred Reasons to get into bed with them.”

Nice. So, beneath their laddish exteriors, do the band subscribe to any, you know, ideas? Or better still, does their song, ‘Scared of the Police’, wear the scars of a righteous and anarchic run in with the law?

Jamie: “Nah, but the Police are well scary man. If you walk past a policeman you’re like ‘shit, man’, even if you haven’t done anything wrong. (Screeches for no apparent reason) I ain’t done nothing!”

As if sensing my disappointment, Jamie gets a bit deep and meaningful on the subject of playing as a three-piece:

“The way I think about it, writing for three instruments is more or less the point. It would be really easy to get a fourth guitarist and do all kinds of other shit. Did you see ‘Dancer in the Dark’ with Bjork in it? It’s like that kind of Dogme film making where this group of directors went ‘right it’s gone to far with special effects, lights, studios, what we need is to set out some rules.’ You’re only allowed a certain amount of cameras, lights, no special effects and you make films within these boundaries and it becomes art again because it becomes a challenge again. And it’s kind of a bit like that, obviously not quite as grand as that but writing for three people you’re forced constantly to come up with new ideas. So it is a limit but a good limit if you know what I mean. We don’t use any particularly weird sounding effects pedals either because a lot of the time you find people covering up boring song writing with effects so we like to have the bare bones. Stay raw!”

Having said this, there’s no smug punk rock sniffiness about major labels or selling out. They’re not overly precious about their DIY ethic, responding to questions about it with inevitable quips about dressing themselves and home decorating.

Jamie is pragmatic: “We don’t have a deal so we’re just putting out our own singles with our own money and all the money goes back into the band.”

Do you reckon that gives you a claim to more authenticity?

Jon: “It gives us poor clothes.” He pulls off Guy’s beanie hat to reveal a stylist’s nightmare, “And look at his hair.”

Jamie: “Er no, not at all actually cos at this level there’s not much question of people fucking with you. One of the major problems with going to a major label would be that you could lose a lot of artistic control but we’ll still be authentic when we get a big deal!”

Is there a limit to what you’d do to get a record deal?

Jamie: “Er, no.” Apparently, they’d even take on indie nemesis Pete Waterman as manager on the mildly spurious assumption that “he’d have all the back catalogue of Nine Inch Nails.”

Do you think he’d have something to say about your chart positions?

Jamie: “That’s not really what it’s all about at the moment. It’s just a bonus.”

Jon: “All our singles have been Top 100.”

Jamie: “I wouldn’t press that point too hard – Top 100!”

Jon: “Well, we released them ourselves on limited edition – I think it’s wicked.”

And you crop up on MTV2. What does that feel like?

Jon: “I don’t know. I’ve only got four and a half channels.”

Jamie: “They didn’t catch my most flattering side.”

A double click on the band’s website will reveal a plethora of slightly random extra-curricular interests. Finally, a semblance of prima donna behaviour surfaces when I unwittingly make a, like, huge Reuben faux pas: You seem quite into He-man and Thunderbirds?

Jamie: “Thunderbirds? Fuck off! They’re shit.”

Jon: “Thundercats.”

Thundercats. Sorry. Would you say they have been a key influence?

Jamie: “Well, yeah, we’ve never stopped loving them really. It’s wicked. It’s the air.”

Jon: “It brings you down to earth, keeps your head on the ground. To know that He-man is true.”

Jamie: “With chicks digging you up, smoking gold cigars, shoes made out of glass. You get home, pop on Thundercats, you know where you stand. They’re fighting for existence on Third Earth, man.”

Jon: “You know what’s real. It keeps you level.”

It’s a long shot, but are you really secret hippies?

Jamie: “Well, actually, I’ve got long hair and I don’t have a job and I talk about love all the time so I probably am a hippy.”

Guy: “He’s a Nu-Hippy.”

Jamie: “I prefer to think of myself as Nu-Hip.”

Is that why you have such random hero figures on your website?

Jamie: “I do have random fingers.”

No, figures dammit – like King Arthur and someone from the A Team,

Jamie: “It’s not random. King Arthur was a great guy. And the A Team tells it how it is. Have you seen the new politically correct one with the guy in the wheel chair?”

On the subject of real world politics, the band is hazy. Presented with a choice between George Bush and Saddam Hussein, they go for latter because “he’s got a wicked moustache.”

Jon: (hastily) “We don’t big up Saddam though. We’re not really down with politics.”

Jamie: “We don’t have a fucking clue about any of it really.”

Do you read the papers?

Jamie: “Tabloids. I find they’ve often got boobies in them.”

Jon: “Boobs and goss. That’s what we go for.”

Ok then, who’s best; Britney or Justin?

Jon and Jamie: “JUSTIN!”

Guy: “Ohhhh dear.”

Jamie: “He has got a bit of a squashed hamster face though. I don’t like his music.”

Jon: “Hamsters! I had a hamster called Derek and a guinea pig called Geoffrey. When Geoffrey bit me, it would hurt, when the hamster bit me it was funny.”

Jamie: “Yeah, and can you put a guinea pig in your hands and it will find a way out no matter what?”

I guess there’s no answer to that one.

Later on, Reuben play a set of tightly executed, uncomplicated grunge rock that that seems to find a place in the hearts of the hoody-wearing masses. They even defy the best efforts of a soundman who seems to be filtering their output through a cement mixer. This doesn’t stop people singing along to recent single, ‘Stux’, and a few weak cheers in response to the question ‘who saw us last time at Joseph’s Well?’ seems to leave them feeling genuinely chuffed.

So there you have it, an unpretentious band, loving what they do and never happier than when they’ve go their feet on the ground, instruments in hand and minds somewhere between Third Earth and the gutter.

Wednesday, June 22, 2005

"Did you bring any indie rock cheese?"

Ok, now it seems that good gigs are more like London buses - you wait ages for one and then ... This is just as well really since it takes my mind off a certain low-key al fresco event taking place on some farm in the UK this weekend. And without much further ado, here we go again with the hyperbole and hyperventilation...

This time it's Wilco - the kind of band who are, if you think hard about it, really special. Jason and I decided to go at the last minute because he is obsessed with My Morning Jacket who were opening (and very good they were too). We had talked ourselves out of going a few weeks earlier because it was a sit-down show in some sort of outdoor amphitheatre which looked vast on the (evil)ticketmaster seating plan. So we were pretty chuffed to get there and discover that it was actually fairly small and in this beautiful wooded hillside, surrounded by Christmas trees and fairies and stuff... It also soon became clear that there wasn't going to be much sitting down involved. And as an added bonus, not only were our seats inexplicably close to the front, they were also just behind some guy from MMJ so Jason got to have a little fanboy schmooze afterwards.

But onto more important things, like how much Wilco rocked. Or, firstly, how adorable Jeff Tweedy is. I have only recently realized this after watching the DVD and seeing that bit where his kid is having him guess the tune of "Heavy Metal Drummer." And seeing him sing "Kicking Television" on Austin City Limits, where he screeches "STOP SHOPPING!!! STOP BUYING STUFF!!!" That, my friends, is genius. As was the point last night when he told the crowd that they were going for a sort of picnic vibe and asked, "did you bring any cheese? Did you bring any indie rock cheese?" - at which moment I decided that this was the greatest combination of words I'd heard all month. (Incidentally, coming a close second was Molly announcing at the allied media conference in Bowling Green last weekend that she "buys far too much soda to be Independent For Life" - the latter having been the righteous slogan on the conference wristbands. Anyway...) Do I really need to explain how much Wilco rocked? Oh, but I want to.

They played most of everything off Yankee Hotel Foxtrot and A Ghost is Born which suited me fine. The crazy jam sessions were the best parts - yes, even the cock-rockin' guitar solo battle that closed the show. "Jesus etc." brought a little tear to my eye. "Spiders (Kidsmoke)" was particularly splendid, what with us being in Michigan and all. (To make another digression - Michigan is rapidly becoming one of the favourite states that I've visited so far. I love the way that it suddenly starts becoming so rural once you get past Detroit. And Detroit is awesome too if you like crumbly old industrial buildings, which I do. While we were driving back from the show we somehow took a wrong turn off 75 and ended up downtown amongst all the huge dark buildings. It takes a special lack of concentration to get lost when all you have to do is follow one road all the way home. We'd been singing along to the guitar parts to "At Least That's What You Said" too loudly...) Ah yes, it had been the kind of show that fills your head and makes you spend all of the next day listening to old albums. Which is what I'm off to do right now...

Monday, June 20, 2005

Sleater-Kinney / Dead Meadow at the Beachland Ballroom

Friday 17th June 2005.

.

What a night. Two three-piece bands and two huge, perfect walls of sound. Dead Meadow was always going to provide the perfect stage-setting segue into the Led Zeppisms of “The Woods.” They have that hippy stoner vibe for sure but it definitely evolves into a groove rather than a dirge. The muppetry of all three players keeps things churning, while it is quite often the bass that defines the song and gets your hips shaking. This is at times reminiscent of BRMC, with those JMC/MBV guitars over the top (it’s BOGOF day on acronyms at the namedropping store, by the way…) but I guess I’m also just charmed by the fact that two of them look like my younger brother during the summer where I paid him not to get a haircut. Anyway…

If S-K’s latest album is the sound of a band upping the ante, then the live version cranks it up even further. Damn, show me another band that sounds this fresh after seven records? And was their back catalogue always this meaty? From the showbiz entrance to the raging encore, they are simply dazzling. It’s fair to say that—with the possible exception of Mogwai—I usually end up fancying at least one member of bands whose shows I enjoy, but I defy anyone to find me a more kissable mouth than Carrie Brownstein’s. The way she spits out the words of “Modern Girl” and, explosively, “Entertain” make her one of the most underrated vocalists around right now, while her ability to wring enormous crunching chords and soulful licks out of her guitar puts her playing on a par with the stage-flooding presence of someone like Jack White. But to single her out perhaps downplays the sheer cohesiveness of Sleater-Kinney. All three ladies are so attuned to one another it’s hard to see where one ends and another begins.

The jam session in the middle of “Let’s Call It Love” is a case in point. Rather than being a self indulgent padding section, this is the crux of the new improved S-K. The only frills on stage are on Corin’s party top and yet the showmanship is there for all to see. It’s not the flaccid rock star antics of the minimally talented but the sight of a band reaching their potential, far surpassing the “girls can rock too” tag and, quite simply, rocking my heart into my mouth. A girl next to me screams, “I’ve never loved you more than I love you now.” Quite.

After playing the new album in its entirety, they return for what amounts to mini Greatest Hits set. On. Fire. The drum roll meltdown at the end of what turns out to be their penultimate number seems to bring them to a point of no return. Surely this is their grand finale? Not yet it isn’t, as from the ashes rises—what else?—“Dig Me Out.”

Prior to last night, I had been bemoaning the fact that I hadn’t seen a truly astonishing gig for a while. Now, as I write this with ringing in my ears and aches and pains all over from dancing (man, I need to get back into training), I am also reminded of why it is that I get so giddy over this whole music malarkey. When I want to see the best things in life, I tend to look close to home and to the people around me—wider stages seem so doom-ridden these days—but the simple fact of the existence of this band and the things they have achieved with this album forces you to believe that bigger and better things are possible. Sleater-Kinney are intelligent, serious, important and fun—frankly, thank God for them.

Thursday, June 16, 2005

Copper Nails: A Story

3rd March ~ 15th June, 2005
Like Roddy says, "a song is a beautiful lie." Well, I don't think my story counts as beautiful but it is definitely a large-scale fabrication; the "I" isn't (really) supposed to be me, and the "you" isn't supposed to be based upon any one particular person. But I would like to apologise in advance to any "real" people who think they might have had parts of themselves fictionalized, amalgamated, ripped-off or otherwise story-fied here. I did it with the best of intentions, that is, to write a story and nothing else...

I worried and worried about how to tell you this. As I retraced my steps over all the journeys I’d made that afternoon, I tested how this line would run; I lost the bracelet you gave me. Listening to a mixtape you made me on my walkman as I went, the music twined round memories like those scraps of lyrics curled inside the tissue paper I first unwrapped. I wished I could wrap the bracelet up again and take better care this time. But I couldn’t because now it was lost somewhere.

It didn’t help that I’d been all over the place that day—office, library, the college radio station, numerous shops—leaving my name and number at each the second time around. With tears threatening to dribble out of the corners of my eyes, I scribbled descriptions on scraps of paper which I assumed would be discarded fairly soon after. Maybe if I was able to describe it better they would look harder. ‘Lost: One inch thick, gold and pearl/shell bracelet.’ I didn’t even really know what it was made of. I thought I saw crushed pieces on the asphalt in the parking lot but they were only shards of ice. It was cold. In the dark, discarded gold cigarette packets were also hopes raised then crumpled and abandoned.
“Gee it sounds super pretty, dear,” said the woman in the convenience store. She was the quintessence of small town friendliness, or maybe, said my uncharitable British cynicism, just a well-oiled, all American customer service machine.
“Someone’s probably taken it,” said her co-worker, who was neither of the above. Perhaps sensing my despair, the first lady reached for what I’d come to recognize as the Anglo-American conversational safety catch:
“I love your accent! Where are you from?”
“Leeds.”
I was monosyllabic but she, like all properly trained shop assistants, was tenacious:
“Is that where the bracelet is from?”
“My old boyfriend back home gave it me before I moved here.”
She’d wrung that much out of me but I couldn’t begin to describe everything. I couldn’t begin to explain the things that had pulled us together and the situations that would pull us apart. She let me go, no doubt sensing a dead end and also realizing that I probably wasn’t going to be making any purchases. I was relieved that she hadn’t asked me why I’d decided to move to Ohio. It was a question I’d been asked so many times in the last six months that I’d forgotten what the real answer was.

If the first thing people noticed was my accent, the second was quite often my bracelets. People would spot my ostentatious collection of gifts and thrift store gems and ask where I got the big antique-looking one from. I’d say that a friend had brought it back from his holiday. Sometimes you were a friend, sometimes a boyfriend, and sometimes you weren’t even you. It was just easier that way. As I left the convenience store, I pictured the bracelet sitting back in a shop in New Orleans and toyed, as I often had, with the coincidence of you finding it there. My image of New Orleans was the residue of a sixth form English class on Tennessee Williams—the significance of his visions of crumbling Southern gentility had been all but lost on me at that time but something has since become patched up around them. I wonder how the real thing would measure up now.

The way I see it, there are two kinds of places; the places we imagine and the places we end up. Forgettable places don’t exist; you might as well never have been. But once you’ve been somewhere, can you still imagine how you thought it’d be? Sometimes I try to recall the image of the University that I’d amalgamated from websites and informational leaflets prior to enrolling. It was some sort of educational edifice imposing itself over a corn field, I think. Once you’ve moved on to a new place, I’m not sure if you can ever remember how you didn’t know it was.

I still imagine that my bracelet belonged to Blanche DuBois, though, and that it probably fell off in one of her struggles at six thirty-two Elysian Fields. She only had slender wrists; a big chunky thing like that would have slipped off easily in all that dark sweaty decadence. Funny how things come together sometimes … like you matching the bracelet to the ones I already had, joining it to the other journeys, friendships and unknown stories that coincided and jangled on my wrist.

I had had a fairly unusual conversation with my Dad earlier in the day that I lost the bracelet. He wanted me to buy him some copper nails from a man in Charlotte, Michigan. Dad makes Shaker-style oval boxes for a hobby. First he has to soften planes of wood in hot water and then bend them gently round a mould without splitting them. The traditional method doesn’t require any glue, just some special copper tacks that hold the whole box together. Reluctantly stationed on an army base in Germany, miles from anywhere, Dad was churning out these boxes like they were coming into fashion. And it turned out this Charlotte man was in possession of the world’s last remaining machine for manufacturing this one truly authentic type of nail. Dad found him on the internet.

Now this is strange. The manufacturer, going by the name of John Wilson, has a website but no email address. He also has the worldwide monopoly on his product but no facilities for accepting credit card transactions. Dad told me that there was a photo on the site showing a man with a beard and no moustache. Somehow the first two anomalies seemed to make sense then. Dad and I chuckled over this,
“Although,” I said, “having spent time in rural Michigan, it doesn’t surprise me.”
Well, not so much surprise me, I thought later, as make me feel comfortable and strangely at home in my funny flat-space-outside-of-time called Ohio.

When the internet seems to let you proceed to checkout with anything and everything—books, flat-pack houses, friendships, wives—loaded into a big Amazon-ian shopping cart, and when airplanes make people at once very close together and very far apart, this convoluted payment scenario speaks to me from different directions; the man with a beard and no moustache in his shed in the Great Lake State; the amateur craftsman in his garage in Germany; his daughter somehow a short drive from the Ohio-Michigan state line, writing checks for nails from a US bank account. I marveled at these three points of a triangle and wondered how many copper nails laid end to end it would take to chart the direct lines between them. My pen drew loops on a scratch pad, like Venn diagrams mapping accessibility and illusion, or connection and coincidence. And Dad and I chatted and laughed in that way people do over coincidences. One of us—I forget who—became the x-millionth person to have said “small world” and I felt close to him as I sat in my office with the phone wedged between my shoulder and cheek, shifting the gold colored pin that clasped the bracelet together in and out of its slot.

I wore the bracelet everyday—part routine, part ritual. Twice daily— every morning and every night—I would maneuver the whole thing over the fattest part of my right hand, quite often grazing the side of my thumb on a sharp edge where the hinge was. But countless times between the edges of the days I would also attend to the little golden pin. This was a habit of mine— this sliding, this not leaving it be. The catch used to be firm but had gradually loosened, sometimes slipping half way out. “I’ll have to watch that,” I thought, while still sliding and still not leaving it be. Once it had broken open entirely but was rescued by my big woolly sleeve. Another time I heard it clatter on the sidewalk behind me and then turned and picked it up with a tight tummy and a shutter-flash vision of the soft edges of your face. Five hours after I’d phoned Dad, I took my coat off at home. The bracelet was gone.

~ * ~

As I carried on retracing my steps, gradually realizing that I would find nothing, I thought about the ways in which, every day of our lives, we brush up against people and things. There are sharp edges and rounded curves, shatterings and coherences, reflections, refractions and angles of incidence. We can plan out routes, plot the basics, but for the magic we do rely upon coincidence. And so, as I finished my fruitless search, I thought about all the other journeys we make and how times and places and concrete things come together and move apart. People are constantly battered and changed until we decide to stop for a moment and pick over our past like a beachcomber stumbling along a shoreline, throwing some things away and pocketing others. At the beach, I like to pick up those pieces of glass that have had their angles worn and rounded by the sea. I appreciate their softness and think of them as pieces of trash treasure, loved then lost.

~ * ~

The bracelet showed up a week later in a mailbox—my friend Eva’s, to be exact.
Eva and I didn’t live together but we co-owned a car. Americans were baffled by this arrangement. The man at the license bureau looked like something was about to short-circuit in his head; divorced lesbians?! A friend from the university said
“Wow, that’s so European!”
It wasn’t, really, but my friendship with Eva made me feel European for the first time in my life. She, a paragon of urban-chic from Berlin, never really seemed to get over the shell-shocked feeling of finding herself marooned in a small Midwestern town where Tractor Pulls draw crowds and state law prohibits beauticians from administering eyelash tints. The 1994 Chrysler mini-van, which had almost as many miles behind it as we did, was our $500 ticket to elsewhere. It had been previously owned by three Austrian graduate students who boasted that they had driven at 80mph between Seattle, San Francisco and Florida. As a souvenir, the car often squeaked, shuddered, and gave off disconcerting gassy odors as it took us places. But it did take us places, and for that we loved it. Just like I loved that whole vision of America.

I willingly bought into the clichéd romance of driving across the States. For a while, even a short drive to the supermarket on the edge of town had the aura of an epic road trip. I bought into this on behalf of all those people at home who bought into it too and were doing it now, vicariously, through me. I spun tales over email in which the unremarkable landscapes of Indiana or Illinois became glorious through the windows of a moving car. I’m suspicious of email now, especially the emerging tradition of the travel narrative groupmail. You can travel the world but a computer with internet access will always let you know where you have left your heart. Home is where you write to? But, when it feels like every experience is something to write home about, when do you stop writing? Or more worryingly, when do you start? Begin too soon and you can find yourself living things in retrospect even as they happen. But I suppose cars are designed that way too; when you look out of the front windscreen you can also see the rear view mirror.

I said to a new friend, as we embarked upon a two hour journey to go and see a band in Columbus,
“The thing I like best about this town is leaving it.”
He laughed, and agreed. But that was only a half truth. I liked coming back too. I just liked moving.

One of the first classes I took at the University was called “Maps of Englishness.” One week, we were assigned an essay from our British Cultural Studies textbook which argued that American teenagers traditionally come of age on their country’s highways, whereas the youth of Britain stages its rituals in the throbbing spaces of their home town’s nightclub. These assertions at first seemed bizarre—inaccuracies both academic and clichéd—but then so were the threads of class discussions most weeks. As I listened to the inevitable generalizations about the country I’d just left behind and tried to duck under the spokes-Brit hat, I also started to see how these impossible imaginings might take place. Maybe I understood why some Americans hold their cars so dear; without them, vast spaces of their country can mean nothing. While confirming my suspicions that America registers far more in the lives of Britons than vice versa, the mutual incomprehensibilities of drive-through liquor stores, Chinese take aways, patriotic bumper stickers, Princess Diana, Apple Butter Festivals and Goodness Gracious Me eventually began to blend in oddly friendly new ways. Perhaps I would fit in here after all? But at the same time, I did miss those nightclubs …

~ * ~

I would often play your mixtapes on the mini-van’s muffled stereo. My favourite one—the same one I had threaded between my ears as I searched for the bracelet that day—featured snatches of weekend club hits recorded from BBC Radio One’s “Essential Selection.” I used to listen to it on my headphones while walking around Leeds too, overdubbing the everyday sounds of the city as I re-lived the last night out and anticipated the next.

This was the city I remembered now—the streets through which you and I walked home one morning, our legs leaden with lactic acid, dark smudges under our eyes and our cheeks stiff from smiling. We took a short cut through the park as the sun was coming up. This was a foolhardy route to choose but with you I always felt indestructible, even at the same time knowing that you could mash me like a re-cyclable coke can at any moment. You were carrying my shoes as we picked our way through upturned polystyrene trays of chow mein, and worse. I always loved treading the empty streets in daylight after not having slept. It’s the oddly beautiful time when the cleanest part of the day collides with the dirtiest fag-end of the night out.

We reached the sundial-shaped intersection of the paths at the center of the park, about the highest point for miles around. I didn’t know then how I would come to relish every slight incline once I’d moved to a place of one hundred and eighty degree horizons—the place from which letters and contracts had started arriving. Elsewhere was gradually invading my letterbox but all I knew then, as we lingered instinctively over the morning view, was that soon the world I’d painstakingly built around me would be gone. I remember feeling, “I am in love with things as they are.”

In the near distance were the church spires and stadium floodlights of Headingley, and the Yorkshire Dales stretching out behind. Across the patch of waste ground to the north east was Woodhouse. People who lived there claimed that nobody ever visited them. I seldom did. Woodhouse wasn’t on the way to any of my somewheres and so I rarely passed through its terraced mazes and tunnels. Because straight ahead was Hyde Park; the heart of it all; a dirty little enigma which countless students had called home for a few years, renting six-bedroomed houses and paying unscrupulous landlords £5 per week extra to squeeze an Ikea queen bed into a box room. There, the 56 bus ran until 3am, down the steep hill past the Royal Park pub, the Picture House, the so-called “Inconvenient Store” which shut at illogical hours, and the post office which was just shut. Nobody, it seemed, wrote letters anymore. Maybe you would write to me one day…

Was I picturing things differently now from my street in the North American heartland—a place where people mow the lawn, keep the music low and put the trash out on time? No, if I focused hard I could still see Hyde Park’s litter, ragged bill posters, discarded club fliers, pushed-over wheelie bins and pot holes in the road—hardly anyone paid Council Tax so they never seemed to get filled in—all of which suggested that the residents didn’t care too much about aesthetics. Lobby groups pointed out that demand for joint-tenancy houses for multiple occupants drove rent prices up and families out, creating transient “scenes” rather than communities in the traditional sense. Certain locals complained about the rowdy hordes of students and their lack of civic pride.

They were right in a way. A sense of semi-permanence did express itself in the fact that some people who lived there seemed to do so in inverted commas. Or perhaps parentheses, denoting a fashionably grubby detour on the road to semi-detached houses in cul-de-sacs within commuting distance from London. Or “ranch-style” bungalows in Ohio. The people I knew there—especially the ones who sidestepped the post-graduation exodus—seemed to have a love-hate relationship with the modes, lifestyles, and attitudes that marked out Leeds as perhaps more renowned for its trendies than any other university city in the UK.

There was a different kind of pride though, only not the US-style college sweater and pom-pom kind. Instead the area’s postcode enjoyed a kind of self-deprecating use as an adjective. It was all very LS6, or so the T-shirts said. LS6 was also rated 10/10 on Ensleigh Student Insurance’s premium scale. Obviously this didn’t count as full marks; it entailed expense. But again, there was strange pride in the fact that we went to parties on Chestnut Avenue—reportedly “the most burgled street in Britain.” Once there was even a drive-by shooting three or four streets away but this seemed to come from another world. Hearsay shrugged it off—“it was some drugs thing”—as if students had no business stake in that particular economy.

Of course, I see now that there had to be many other versions of this few square miles I called my home turf. Perhaps shamefully, it took discussions about “Multi-ethnic Britain” in Ohio of all places for me to really consider the ways in which different versions of Hyde Park were geographically superimposed over my white, middle class student one—a complex ecosystem of lives both intrinsically connected and, in other ways, acres apart. There was bhangra music playing in the taxis that whisked us from Headingley pubs to downtown clubs as midnight approached. Then there were the cafes in Hyde Park to which you could later return to smoke sheeshas and eat couscous at 4am. What did the women wearing salwar kameez who extended their family’s laundry across the back terraces think of us, bellowing in the streets in the small hours of weekday mornings?

But from our vantage point in the park that morning, I couldn’t see the rubbish or the inconsistencies. I certainly wasn’t in the mood for sociological analysis. All I could see were the roofs—parallel lines of brown red terraces laid out back to back. Not in grids like those letter and number systems I would later negotiate, but weaving in and out like secret doodles down the margins of my lecture notes. I’d spent three years cutting through back streets, trying to establish by trial and error the quickest routes to my friends’ houses and, as a result, this place wasn’t merely the back of my hand. It was inside my brain with pins stuck in it to mark spots where I’d carved out routine heartbreaks at bus stops, got talking for ten minutes to that Welsh homeless guy or perhaps just shared a joke with you on a park bench, old folks-style.

In that one morning’s early sun, the roofs were bright, bright red—all except for the shining green of the newly renovated Mosque. Light beamed off its dome. I reached into my bag for my disposable camera but you held my arm to stop me.
“Don’t,” you said. “It won’t come out the way you’re seeing it now anyway. Just concentrate instead.”
So I did. And I cried sludges of makeup down my face. You held me the way you usually did when we’d just broken up. You held me so tight that I had to tense back, catching us in that suction moment of tugging to open a sealed refrigerator door. I thought something might be about to implode. And I thank you for that because that picture of the roofs in my mind became things-as-they-were—a still from a film about the only place I’d ever really felt at home.

Luckily this freeze-frame has a portable soundtrack—not the walkman-precluded sounds of road-sweepers or burglar alarms—but beats that carry with them the pounding allure of Leeds’ famous nightclubs, places where I’d found my feet and succumbed to dancing as if they were nothing more than bedrooms with banging professional sound systems. Hang on— maybe I was a textbook case after all?

It was amusing now. As I would drive my green van along the flat, straight roads of Northwest Ohio, or walk—unusually for locals—along streets where sidewalks had been deemed unnecessary, the music on my tape didn’t match the new landscape at all. Emails from others at home raving about havin’ it at Technique or Back2Basics sounded faintly ridiculous even as their off-the-cuff references and UK slang snagged on my sense of missing out on things. The songs would still take me places, though.

There was one whose name I never found out that had made me long to go to Ibiza—that is, the Ibiza where I suppose you dance in the sea as the sun comes up, not the one where people push paracetamol in clubs filled with Manchester United fans. There was another song called “Lola’s Theme” which had been the fanfare for the summer of 2004:
I’m a different person! / Turned my world around!
You always thought the vocals were cheesy but, in my car, the memories almost made my chest explode. And next the tape plays “Somebody to Love,” remixed ham-fistedly by the Boogie Pimps into god awful sixties nostalgia for the ecstasy generations. But I won’t pretend I didn’t love it and that, if I let it, it doesn’t still take me places …

… “I love the bracelet. Thank you. But don’t ever—ever—let me think we can be together if we can’t.”
“Don’t think this is … It just makes it easier to say what’s already there. No one’s ever,” you sweep that fringe, “affected me the way you did. It really scares me. But Happy Birthday. I’ll feel bad if this kills you and I gave it to you.”
I laugh and tell you that “I don’t care” because nothing matters except what it looks like to me now which is that you are pulling every string in your body with the effort of not touching me and it’s hot and then you are touching me and you’re lifting me up and spinning and spinning and spinning and, and, and … then the DJ drops a tantalizing hint of bloody Rui Di Silva! We can only understand what we are shown / How was I supposed to know our love would grow? More, more­—God!—more; I understand the flashing lights and the fruity machine smoke. You talk of feeling your soul trying to escape from your body. You really think it might. Such dark, sexy music—impelling us to move—all the while holding the formula for the ache and the breath that sinks down when it should escape with the sucking pull of a concertina box. Breathing in figures of eight. The body language of your mind in a clinch with your vital organs. Sometimes you are the music. Sometimes I can distil the essence of those whole uncapturable experiences into the rush I feel remembering them. The way the music and the memories speak together, shifting particles inside me so that my whole body becomes an irregular, inverting egg timer, bracelets jangling as hands twirl with the constancy of clock hands generating and losing time ...

~ * ~

My special bracelet was lost and found either side of Spring Break. That week, I’d left Ohio behind and taken a long, icy drive into Canada. It wasn’t the Spring Break I’d derided in American teen movies—formulaic boy-meets-girl scenarios on Florida beaches—it seemed arctic. Lake Ontario was a solid white but still moved in eerie waves of pearly sheen when the wind got up.

When I got home, there was a phone call from Eva. She told me about the bracelet in her mailbox. She was almost as happy as me but couldn’t have felt the waves of nostalgia, adrenaline and relief—you would never have to know. Or, I would never have to know if you still cared enough to be angry, sad, or reproachful.

So now I’m back where I’d forgotten I’d been. I’m back in the parking lot outside 246 Second Street in Bowling Green, Ohio. As I was retracing my steps on that day, I hadn’t remembered that I’d also stopped by Eva’s apartment complex to drop something off in her mailbox. Eva had already left for a week in Miami with her boyfriend so I’d been there all of a minute. The bracelet must have unhinged itself then. Upon finding my treasure on the floor, one of those community spirited somebodies must have decided not to keep it and, by some blessed logic, also decided to put it in Eva’s mailbox rather than any of the six others. Maybe they’d seen me there, or seen glamorous Eva on the stairs and thought it would suit her. Since I’ll never know who they were, I like to imagine that you made the walk from Hyde Park to Leeds city centre, past the shuttered satellite branches with the For Sale signs to the main Post Office, and mailed my bracelet back.

A few days later, several hundred copper nails arrived in my mailbox with an invoice from John Wilson in Charlotte, Michigan. There was a note on the invoice saying
“Dear Steve, glad to hear you still find box making an enjoyable hobby.”
I hadn’t realized that this wasn’t the first batch that Dad had bought. Seven years ago, apparently, money had changed hands through an American citizen living in Cumbria, Northwest England. This time around it was me who sent John Wilson the twenty seven dollars, and spent almost as much again shipping the package out to Dad in Northwest Germany. Before sending it, though, I kept a few of the nails. That way, if the bracelet ever goes missing again, I’ll have something to remember it by.

Tuesday, June 14, 2005

My Current Favourite Things

"Saturday" by Ian McEwan
"Blame it on Obvious Ways" by Idlewild
Looking forward to seeing Sleater-Kinney on Friday
Lemons
Writing on my crappy laptop
Driving in my squeaky car
"The Sopranos" DVD Box Sets
Having time on my hands
"Morvern Callar" DVD

The House Without Windows: A Story

9th June 2005

The heat clung to her and she wore it like a wetsuit. She inhabited it. Her skin wept inside of it. Sluicing through shapeless days that were clogged with sleep-loss and marked only by afternoon electrical storms, she and he then endured sleepless nights with body parts stuck, on points of contact, like sheets of dying rubber. These were nights constricted by the sides of limbs and the sticky space between them. They cohabited but, privately and uncomfortably to each, the other was more of an itch than a presence.

To be sure their room was getting smaller. Or was it bigger? He would run his fingers across the surfaces of the walls, feeling for new cracks everyday. Although she felt the house dilate in the heat and then clench when the thunder rumbled, the cracks were a mystery to him. New cracks appeared where he had doggedly plastered over old ones. She said they should leave them for ventilation. He said they let the ants in and made the house a tornado deathtrap—the latter being precisely the reason why he’d built a house without windows and doors in the first place. Both had long since given up on outside anyway, sensing it only through subtle indoor nuances and the implication that the insect invaders came from somewhere and needed to be sent back there, dead or alive.

Each day the same. The haze would be slovenly until the wind got up around tea time. Then, through one of the larger cracks near the corner, she would watch the sky maneuver clouds for its daily set piece, smell that dungy tinge of the expectant tarmac, and think about other people moving plastic chairs off their patios.

She and he had long since sealed a tacit and mutual pact to stop talking about the heat. Trouble was, it had turned out to be the only thing between them—now a mulch of unuttered thoughts decayed into the unthought atmosphere and thickened it. On good days the heat stood in for communication. On bad days it fried them. It was too hot to eat. If you didn’t eat then there was no need to work. Without work there was no need to leave the house, or sleep, just doze fitfully like he had been doing before he came round to discover there was one body in the room instead of two.

That day he woke fully. Guessed she got up and slipped through one of the wider cracks in the wall—that one she always looked out of and wouldn’t let him plaster. Shock pierced the heat and his wakefulness heightened and stung. He sensed cracks visibly forming under the plaster. Soon, he was seeing the walls become wrinkled with palimpsestic visions of beige and set upon them with his workman’s trowel, mixing the powder with sweat and tears.

Then he panicked as the walls got smaller and lurid projections danced on them. Cracks started to bleed and dribble into one another and the floor undulated as though there might be a breeze among the carpet fibres. He prostrated himself there where it looked like the wind would be but tasted only dust as he mouthed her name. Warning sirens swirled in the air outside. Was that her?

He moved slowly now, as if through a maze of heavy velvet curtains and worst case scenarios, feeling for the reasons she might have left and further down for the memory of her touch, but remembering only the heat—this endless heat, vacuum-sealing him in his confusion, loss and longing. Days seemed to go by, sweating time, and the cracks in the walls were still bleeding and dribbling into one another, now with the faintly gangrenous hue of sense and perception decomposing. The room was inhaling but not giving the air back. He didn’t notice his own breathing becoming sterterous—each ‘in’ trying to hurdle the ‘out’—and then blackness came.

Some time later, one of his eyes told him there was something growling in a cage in the corner. He closed the eye and prayed for rain or deliverance. Then he half-looked again. Either the projections were still there or it was possible that she was back in the room, turning her naked body towards him, one side at a time. No, she was turning away from him and towards it—whatever it was—holding out her palms like a game show assistant under studio lights.

Eyes finally opened, propeller blades blurred his vision and then registered, close to his face. Her laugh was behind them and infused, like everything else now, with the buzz of a squat little machine. There she was—dancing to its pulsating rhythm—a thankful supplicant before a rotating turbine god.

At last the heat was moving. Its movement whirled shivers onto him and moved him forward to kiss her. He closed his eyes and the rain came.

Manifesto for a Mixtape Mafia.

May 2005

Maybe I’m just a total Luddite techno-phobe. Maybe I just hate spending money on gadgets. Maybe they’re just too ubiquitous now. Maybe I’m suspicious of the hip advertising onslaught and the status symbol headphones. Maybe it’s because they seem to envelope, erase and overtake all those years I spent at first scraping and then gradually snowballing together a CD collection—that triumphant first feeling of finally having enough to fill the long side of a whole shoe box—or maybe I’m just bitter and jealous. But I’ll say it once now so that, if or when I have to retract it later, I’ll remember this as a purer, simpler time.

I. Hate. iPODS. iHATE iPODS. Ha! I Hate Them!

Now this isn’t because I have any sense of loyalty to CDs—soulless, skipping, scratch-able rip offs that they are. Neither is it because I’m anywhere close to being a vinyl junkie. No, I pledge allegiance to that least glamorous vehicle of recorded sounds. The trusty alliance of blank cassette and compact disc and, here they are, their immaculate love children—mixtapes.

They used to say that home taping was killing music, but I see it rather as making it—procreating it. Definitely not “burning” it, anyway. There’s an art to the mixtape—an art and a beautifully living, breathing, amateurish humanity to it. When you hear that “shurclunk” between songs then you know that it registers the pad of a poised finger astride the Play/Rec. buttons. You know that at least as much real time goes into the making of it as into that first, exploratory listen. You feel the maker hovering in the background static. And, to be sure, each has his or her own alchemical methods.

Do you assiduously plan the tracklisting down to the last second before you start or do you play it by ear once things start rolling? How far do you go to maintain the balance between including what you think the person ought to like and what you think they actually will like? To what creative ends can A and B sides be put? What happens if the tape ends mid track? Are double appearances by the same band acceptable? Do you favour seamless links or juxtapositions? Surely you bother to make accompanying artwork? Do you list the tracks or leave the listener feeling their way through blind? Liner notes? How much do you reveal? Do you keep the tape and listen to it for a while first, just to check it’s not a dud—then there’s also always the danger that you might just keep it…

And, let’s be honest, a properly planned mixtape always has a hidden or not-so-hidden agenda. For a start, there’s no such thing as pure altruism here—even if you discount the hours of fun that go into these labours of love. Whether it be marking an occasion, demonstrating your painfully eclectic tastes, setting yourself off on a righteous indie-fuelled crusade to “educate,” implying an “I Love You” or memorializing a break up with a secret sonic FUCK YOU, there is always a subtext—it’s always about you. I’ll admit to having been on both ends of most of the above, not forgetting also the birthday tapes, “best of…” tapes, party tapes, clubbing tapes, come down tapes, going to sleep tapes, seasonal tapes, nostalgia tapes, road trip tapes, tapes about being unemployed, requiems for firebombed Ford Escorts…

The possibilities are endless. For a time, my family used to make summer holiday mixtapes to listen to in the car on long drives to Devon. These supposedly preempted the need to squabble over the stereo and, in the view of my brother and I, shaved precious half hours off Dad’s inevitable Radio Four hegemony. On a recent nostalgia tack, I searched high and low for one of these familial relics but, alas, to no avail. Segues between, as I recall, Welsh Male Voice Choirs, “Cigarettes and Alcohol,” “Sultans of Swing” and “Karma Police” would, I don’t doubt, have set a new kind of bar for the shuffling “Life Is Random” iPOD brigade.

I hate those fucking adverts, not just cos the 2D ravers are ten million times the dancers I’ll ever be, but because they con people into thinking that there’s a romance and mythology about iPODs that just doesn’t ring true. Tell me this—would you rather have someone slip you a tape or offer to lend you a few CDs to upload? Would you rather have a playlist sliding by in a digital identi-font or etched in uniquely recognizable scribble?

iPODs make me want to photograph the entangled brown entrails of eviscerated cassettes as they are blowing in the wind, develop them in sepia tones and frame them in elaborate gold-leafed curls.

I want to make mixtapes for every person who plugs their ears with the space-age white of a marketing board’s inspired decision (inspired, that is, until the muggers caught on), for every person who has a memory stick instead of a photo album, every would-be couple who texts rather than converses, and for every writer who has a blog instead of rather than as well as a diary.

I’m scared that those hours spent flicking through shit vinyl in Oxfam or even along the CD lined shelves of friend’s houses will be replaced by the minute oscillations of index fingers, trammeling through neatly subdivided lists. What happens when-—wash my blasphemous mouth out!—iPODs become obsolete? Do the young cats groovin’ in the two-tone ads ever get tired? Did the salesman tell them that their batteries die?

The ritual exchange of plastic and cellophane(?) infuses collections and delectations in a way that tangibly registers the intertwining of new loves and discoveries with people, times and places. So no, this isn’t the same as file sharing. Do MP3s bear the marks of from whence they came? Mixtapes are little pieces of a person. That’s why you can never—ever—destroy one. I wonder where some of my tapes are now. Did the ones made for long-since-estranged exes end up on a bonfire somewhere? I know my brother taped over one once—surely the biggest tape-makers bitch slap of them all? I also know that one was stolen from a car parked in Detroit. Did the robber ever listen to it? Are my tapes loved or lost or left to rot? Are they in walkmans, racks, boxes, glove compartments or land fill sites? Did they beget purchasing sprees or turn people off for life?

I can’t answer that and so instead I would like to dedicate this to all those whose carefully crafted progeny I have adopted and cherished as my own…Mella, Simon, Tim, Courtney, Steve, mixmaster Greg, Gassy, Dave, Amy, Richard, Martin…And to those who have been saddled with my offspring at various times and at least pretended to enjoy their company.

“Here no elsewhere underwrites my existence.”

30th May 2005

Or, Here’s the writing-as-psychotherapy bit…

As this summer turns into my nineteenth academic year (I’m turning twenty three in December), something unusual is going to happen. I am going to be staying in the same house for my second year at Bowling Green State University, which means that I am going to have the same bedroom for two years in a row. I did a tally recently; I think that I have had approximately thirty different bedrooms so far. Since the age of nine, when I first went away to boarding school, I always had at least two bedrooms at any one time; one at school or university, and one at my parents’ house—wherever that happened to be at the time. Each room’s décor tended to have a museum-like tone, festooned with photos and knickknacks that stood as dust-gathering monuments to my various elsewheres of time and place.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, I’ve always had trouble with that simple icebreaker, “where are you from?” Matching people up to their home towns is fun, though. A friend who was born on Michigan’s remote Upper Peninsula recently described it, fondly, as “a place envious of The Middle of Nowhere for being that little bit closer to Somewhere.” I’ve realized that England doesn’t really have any true Nowheres. Well, not like here anyway. Still, my England was, in funny ways, always full of Nowheres.
“Where are you from?”
“Nowhere really, I’ve moved around a lot.”
Having moved to Ohio, however, I’m suddenly from Somewhere. To Americans, I am British—or English to myself (the difference seems out there somewhere). My parents are actually living in Germany right now, and my Granny has moved her furniture into our house in leafy Surrey—the first one actually owned by my parents and not the British Army. Granny has reputedly turned my touchstone bedroom into a guestroom. She wanted to take down my posters advertising bands and Leeds club nights but my mum wouldn’t let her, determined that my brother and I would still have a “base” in the UK while she and Dad are away.

So, in the absence of anywhere more concrete, Leeds has become my adopted home town. It was where I lived last and most fully so it doesn’t matter too much to the story that the only things left of mine in that city are friends and acquaintances who may or may not remember the same things as me. Anyway, Americans can’t tell that my homogenous Southern accent belies long lost Yorkshire roots, of which they would have no concept anyway. I’m proud of these theoretical roots while having no actual recollection of them. In fact, I spent half the time I lived in Leeds insisting that I’d been born near there despite the fact that I said bath not bath and bus not bus, and didn’t give that much of a shit about United’s nose-diving trajectory. If anyone in Ohio has heard of Leeds, it’s usually because they follow European “Soccer”—or “real Football” as I call it just to make a point sometimes. Or because The Who played there (Live!) once.

Around the time that I moved to Leeds I recall people had started calling it The London of The North. It used to be considered “grim oop north,” but urban regeneration following industrial decline in cities like Newcastle, Manchester, Sheffield and Leeds succeeded in yuppifying parts of them at least. Cosmopolitan café culture was writ large across Brigate, The Headrow and Call Lane. I remember getting a joke forwarded over email that looked like a menu for one of these tastefully generic establishments. It purported to offer Ciabatta Bread and Dripping alongside Bovril Mocha. This seemed to capture the identity crisis of the new and old Norths. A salt-of-the-earth local pensioner on the number one bus once grumbled to me about how much Leeds changed had “when all the students and Pakis moved in.” What do you do? I read recently that the new (and somewhat oxymoronic) Lonely Planet Guide to Britain refers to Leeds as “Britain’s Barcelona.” I’ve not been to Barcelona but I can’t help but imagine swathes of angry tourists demanding their money back.

I had to queue up outside the American Embassy in London for two hours last June. That is, before they’d even let me into the building and even think about thinking about letting my join the first of several more queues that would eventually allow me to re-emerge with an F-1 student visa. I’ve since learned that some people in America think that everyone knows everyone in the UK—“you’re from England? Do you know my mother’s second cousin?”—but that day in the visa queue there was a small world coincidence. It turned out that I was standing next to a couple who lived less than a mile away from me in Leeds. They had emigrated there from India five years ago were about to take a holiday to Seattle. They were a bit worried that their Indian passports would complicate the already-convoluted processes involved in getting access to post-9/11 America. As someone who had bona fide letters of acceptance from an American university, along with forms guaranteeing my means of financial support, the matter-of-fact-suspicion with which I was treated by Embassy officials that day made me wonder how it feels to make long term immigration applications. I get so angry when people, from whatever country, make disparaging remarks about “immigrants”—I came to blows with a student from my composition class in Ohio who wrote a paper lambasting “foreign natives” for their inability to understand US patriotism. If I was President of the World, I’d like to make a year’s “Immigration Simulation” a compulsory part of state education. Like an exchange, only nobody tells you if or when you get to come back. You’d get a country at random and then have a crack at making a life there …

My Granddad was born in India; his sister’s family emigrated to Canada after World War II; my Dad’s parents and sister quit the UK for New Zealand just before I was born, and my Mum’s brother and his family have just officially become Australian citizens. Maybe it’s in my blood. I know a lady here from India who says she kept here fingers crossed during whatever ceremony it was that made her an American citizen. I can’t imagine wanting to change my citizenship, but I love the incongruous variety of surnames and place names in this country. I know there’s a Leeds out in Utah somewhere. My friend whose surname is Smith doesn’t believe that that was originally his family’s name. He suspects that something else was deemed unpronounceable when his forebears passed through Ellis Island, being unable to spell out their old name. This erasure seems poignant to me. Nobody knows where they were from now. This seems unsettling, in both good and bad ways.

Something unsettled me today. Over the weekend, I had a conversation with my friend Chelsea about how people sometimes define their identity through things like music. We both agreed that we did this to a certain extent. She had been uploading CDs of mine onto her iPOD (curse those things!) and concluded that me and my music didn’t seem to fit together. This came as something of a surprise to me as I’ve always considered my taste to be rather typical of a certain type of music fan. I’m continually disturbed by the fact that, whenever I buy anything on Amazon.com, it always says “If you like this, then you should also try…” and then proceeds to list albums that I already own and bands that I do indeed admire. There’s nothing like being demographically predictable to make you feel like record corporations own your soul. So in some ways it was pleasing to have Chelsea unstick me from that. But then she said that maybe she just didn’t get it because she hadn’t seen me in my element. I said that feeling so happy in Ohio recently had made me wonder what my “element” was. This was fine. The thing that unsettled me was seeing this conversation paraphrased on her blog today. She extended my comments, asking whether maybe, just maybe, I wasn’t as Leeds as I thought I was. I think she got a sense that, not understanding my elsewhere, she wasn’t getting all of me. Frankly, she isn’t—but what can I do about this? Isn’t this the same for everyone? Can you ever really know another person? It would certainly take a while, and it’s not as if we stay put and pose for character portraits anyway.

Sometimes I allow myself to entertain the possibility that, once this American hiatus is over, the friends that I return to won’t quite be the same people I left behind. It’s not surprising since, for example, biologically speaking, every cell in our bodies renews itself at a certain rate. I can’t remember the exact time scale but it means that points in the cycle arrive where not one atom of our being remains the same as it was before. Does it make me a commitment-phobe to say How Fucking Refreshing? The best friendships mutate over time—sedimentary layers of shared experiences exerting their own unique pressure, forming metamorphic memories and rare, distinct fossils. I like knowing where I’ve come from but also that I’m not who I used to be, however much I rather enjoyed being that person.

In my last few years of school, I discovered a fondness for Philip Larkin’s poetry. My well thumbed copy of Collected Poems bears the inscription “To our own little Larkin, with love on your eighteenth…” Some of my school friend’s had taken to calling me that, not because I really wrote poetry but because, until I moved away to university, I had a rather caustic and cynical edge that I don’t really recognize as my own any more. Somehow I become editor of my school yearbook and judiciously edited out the bit that said I didn’t suffer fools gladly. Nevertheless, despite the fact that I’ve always been troubled by Larkin’s being a racist, misogynist reactionary in many ways, a lot of what his poetry says chimes with me. He has a way of writing about time and geographical space that punches me in the stomach. His poem “The Importance of Elsewhere” begins:

Lonely in Ireland, since it was not home,
Strangeness made sense. The salt rebuff of speech,
Insisting so on difference, made me welcome:
Once that was recognised, we were in touch.”

I’ve lost count of the number of times that my accent has inflected my meeting new people in the States. People often seem to do a mental double take when I open my mouth for the first time. I’m instantly impressed with the person who doesn’t comment on it. Just this weekend a woman stopped and asked me for the time. “Half past five,” I replied with my flat, foreign vowel sounds. She stared back with steadily raising eyebrows for about five long seconds until I felt obliged to repeat myself. I perceive a slight tone of surprise in the voices of cold callers when I answer the phone and then explain that I don’t want their cable subscriptions. This weekend also, I was having a conversation with Chelsea in the bathroom at a local bar. As I emerged from my cubicle, a girl who had been standing in line asked me, “Is that your real voice?” Well, right now it is, yes.

Truth be told, I sometimes hear myself caricaturing my own accent for the benefit of American ears—especially on my radio show. Listeners have even called the studio request line to comment on it. And I know that I’ve inhabited a number of different accents in my time, despite never really having one to call my own. I remember returning for my first weekend home from boarding school and my brother asking, with the blunt force of a seven-year-old, why I had started talking posh. We did have elocution lessons at school, reciting ditties which reminded us to tongue our t’s and fasten h’s securely onto the front of words, and so on. After a summer holiday in my early teens during which we visited Dad’s relatives in Lancashire and my birthplace in Harrogate, I decided that I wanted a northern accent like Dad’s. I tried it for a while in secret and then tried to subtly blend it into my public school RP. The resultant hybrid was laughable and thus soon abandoned. Three years in Leeds helped me to pick up a little of the local lilt, although Ohio has since rinsed it out of me. I know a professor who has lived in the States for ten or so years but was originally from Yorkshire—he has one of the strangest accents I’ve ever heard, kind of bendy. I can’t see myself picking it up, although I spoke to a friend from home on the phone recently—secretly delighting in the north Yorkshire inflections I hadn’t heard for so long—and he said that my intonation seemed to be changing.

Maybe people will always have trouble placing me, like the shop assistant here who asked me what part of France I was from. Or another to whom I had spoken almost daily for months who complemented me on how much my English accent was improving. Although, come to think of it, I remember certain patrons of the bar I used to work at in Leeds asking me if I was “European”—as if they weren’t. A guy who worked there too used to say that he couldn’t always understand me because I was “too Southern.” He had a Lancashire accent so warm and thick that, coupled with the fact that his mouth was generally shielded by swathes of his long hair, I often had to ask him to repeat himself. Other times I knew full well what he was saying but asked him to repeat anyway—I liked the feel of (and probably envied) his northwest twang. His two hour moved across the Pennines from Blackburn to Leeds was, by his account, a monumental one within his family. They had lived in the same place for generations. I wondered more than once what that must have been like.

I had a funny feeling standing on the platform of Basingstoke station when I was back in the UK for a few weeks last Christmas break. As far as I can tell, Basingstoke and its environs have next to nothing to recommend them as places of residence. I felt a wave of relief that I wasn’t grinding through these suburbs day by day. Still, my smug outsider feeling subsided when I realized that nobody noticing this girl on the platform would know that she had a whole other life in the United States. The man I bought a coffee off wouldn’t bat an eyelid at my accent. Without my secret and half-justified sense of difference, I would have felt profoundly bored.

Later in “The Importance of Elsewhere,” Larkin says that he enjoys the feeling of alienation experienced abroad, because it can be more easily accounted for than the alienation experienced somewhere you are accustomed to call home: “Living in England has no such excuse … Here no elsewhere underwrites my existence.” Sometimes I wish that I really had a place to call my own. Mostly though, I feel lucky to have spent my first twenty three years moving between elsewheres. I think of it as one of my life’s great privileges. I sense that being able to look at Bowling Green, Ohio through a foreigner’s eyes allows me to like it here for reasons that may have become impossible for people who have been here a long time.

Space travel’s in my blood,
There ain’t nothing I can do about it,
Long journeys wear me out,
But I know I can’t live without it …